How do they gets order from buyers?

Business, CAD, Garments, Merchandising
How do they gets order from buyers

Garments factory produced garments and shipment to various country by on land transportation, Sea or by air and makes profit. They use LC transaction system most of the time get the money.  When the manufacturer failed to complete the full PO quantity order on time than they send the goods to buyer by air which is much expensive than sea shipment.

Have you ever been curious to know? How exactly they execute all of those process? No…………o! If yes; than you might be get some information but not completely satisfied you. Isn’t it? Today I’ll try to make you a little clearer about this matter. Let’s ask a few question and try to find out the answer.

How do they gets order from buyers?

 

Get an order to produce garments is not an easy task. Merchandiser of a factory is responsible to take order from buyer and execute the full production to shipment. The merchandiser received some product related documents like Tech Pack, Spec, and Measurement Chart from buyer’s representative. Merchandiser send those documents to Product Development (PD) Department it’s also known as Sample Section. The pattern maker makes pattern and send it to the sample making responsible to make mock up for that particular garment. Also send the pattern to CAD department to calculate the actual consumption of fabric and materials.

What is Mock Up?

Mock up is a demo structure of that garments, makes the initiating time of product development stage. PD makes to find out the difficulties it’s can be occurred during sample making and production process. Mock up helps the CAD & IE related people to find out the actual consumption materials and SMV. This sample makes from available fabric and trims which already they have in factory.

Procedure of to go for Negotiations:
Base on this value they makes approximate price for garments, which they get from CAD & and IE. The merchandiser place a price to the customer to negotiate with them. Most of the time buyer ask to reduce the price if the garments is new style. When the buyer thinks the price is reasonable they ask them to proceed for buying sample. The sample section is responsible to make desire garments however customer needs.  Representative of buyer change the garments style, shape, materials so many time in this development stage to make a proper shape and affordable price. If they like than they ask for Counter Sample (CS) to make contract seal with that factory.

What is contract Seal?

Contract seal means, the factory get the order from buyer and can be start production process as soon as they want to complete the production within shipment dead line. Factory works so hard to complete the production and prepared the shipment goods in the barrier of their

last FOB date.

How they negotiate the price of goods?

Merchandiser is the person who is responsible to do that negotiation with customer. Merchandiser go for negotiation after get the consumption summary from CAD department, SMV & threads consumption from IE Department. This process takes a little long time finalize the actual garments and is price. Its takes 60 days to 120 days depend on buyer requirement and goods price from development to shipment.

Meaning of abbreviations are used in this article

CAD      = Computer Aided Design.

SMV       = Standard Minute Value.

CS           = Counter Sample.

PD          = Product Development.

IE            = Industrial Engineering.

LC           = Letter of credit

PO          = Product Order

FOB        = Free On Board

 

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Terms of fabric Manufacturing and GSM Calculation

Accessories, Fabric

Fabric can be made from interlacement, interlooping , intertwining  or bonding of two , one or multiple threads or fibers with specified dimensional stability that can be transformed to apparel or Garments. we are gonna discussing about GSM as wall.

There are three major methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into fabrics

  1. Interlacement or Interwevaing
  2. Interlooping
  3. Intertwining

Interlacement or Interwevaing :-

Two distinct  sets of yarns one is called warp yarn and another is called weft yarn  are interlaced with each other and produced fabric by loom which is called woven fabric. The lengthwise yarns are called warp and  The crosswise yarns are called  weft. Weft yarns are also known as filling yarns or threads

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Interlooping :-

Interlooping consists of forming yarn (one set yarn such as warp or weft) into loops, each of which is only released after a succeeding loop has been formed  and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop structure is achieved . knit fabric is produced by Interlooping

Intertwining :-

Intertwining and twisting includes a number of methods such as braiding and knotting where yarns are caused to intertwine with each other at right angles or some other angle

Nonwoven

The planner substance which can be made from bonding fibers with specific dimensional stability that can be transformed to apparel

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What’s RFID, How it works & Application

Terms of fabric Manufacturing and GSM Calculation

What is band knife

What is garment Tech Pack or Spec

Some terms  that you have to know

Winding:

To produce suitable package from spinners package such as cone, cop, pirn cheese etc. is called Winding

Warping:

To produce warper beam from suitable  package such as cone, cop, pirn cheese etc. is called Warping

Sizing:

The process of applying a protective coating upon the yarn surface so that the yarn will suffer the least damage in weaving

Pinning:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the drop wire/ dropper is called pinning.

Drawing:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald eye of heald Frame is called Drawing  .

Drafting:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald eye of heald Frame for a specific fabric such as twill , plain is called Drafting .

Denting:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the dent of reed is called Denting .

Tying-in/ Knotting:

The tail end of the warp from the exhausted warp beam is tied or knotted to the beginning of the new warp is called Tying-in

Soft Winding:

By reducing hardness, the package has to be made suitable for dyeing. It is called soft winding.

Hard Winding:

During winding process a hard package is made from the soft package. Then it is converted to a cone form. It is called hard winding.

Backward Linkage:

The relation of grey fabric with yarn, fiber and polymer is known as backward linkage.

Forward Linkage:

The relation of grey fabric with finished fabric and apparel is known as forward linkage

 

What is GSM ?

It is the metric measurement of the weight of a fabric. The Elaborate form of GSM is grams per square meter. it is also known as (gm/m2). Some clothing items are still marked in Imperial weights OZ or oz/yd2. OZ or oz/yd2 means ounces per yard squared

We can measure GSM  by using following steps without GSM Cutter :

  •  Cut 5 pieces of fabric.  (The length and the width of all fabric pieces should be like 12 cm)
  • Measure the weight of all fabric pieces. (suppose 1.8gm, 2gm, 1.85gm, 1.90gm, 1.95gm)
  • Then calculate average  weight such as

(1.8+2+1.85+1.90+1.95)/5 =1.95 gm

  • Calculate the fabric sample area

Length * width = 12 * 12 = 144 cm2

Now apply this formula

GSM = (Weight of the samplein Gram*10000)/Area of Sample in cm2

        = ( 1.9*10000)/144

        = 131.94

 

Comments :

Fabric weight depends on GSM .

 

Relation between GSM & OZ :

5.5oz x 33.906 = 186.48gsm

185gsm / 33.906 = 5.45oz

This is very important to understand the variations of fabric weight

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Scientist in Bangladesh has invented one kind of amazing bag

Business, How To, News, Testing, Wet Processing
Scientist in Bangladesh has invented one kind of amazing bag

Introducing of Sonali Bag

A Bangladeshi scientist has invented one kind of bag called “Sonali Bag”. Its look like transparent polythene bag. It’s made from completely bio-degradable substance. To protect from of hazard effect of polythene goods. Scientist over the globe trying to replace that effect by some new inventions. Finally;  Bangladeshi scientist named Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan demand that he has invented such bags which made from jute.

Everybody knows about Jute fiber which is also known as Golden fiber. Jute fibers are silky, lustrous and golden brown in color. It has strength, low cost, durability and versatility. Sonali Bag is used where low cost is important than durability and it is called Golden fiber.

Scientists have conducted researches for long to invent an effective alternative to the harmful polythene. But they do not find any way. The new jute-made bag used as handy as poly bag, it is supposed to have a huge potential for successfully ending the use polythene in the country and save the environment of Bangladesh along with world environment.

You may like to know about Revolution of textile by banana fiber

History:

Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan

Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan

Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan has invented the ‘Sonali bag’. He has successfully developed the low-cost bio-degradable sheet from modified jute cellulose. Mechanical properties of polyethylene sheet is lower than the developed sheet. The product shows complete bio-Degradability within 4-6 months of soil burial. It will be degraded in water by around 8 hours.

 

Chemical composition:-

Cellulose: 65.2%

Hemi-cellulose: 22.2 %

Lignin: 12.5 %

Water soluble matter: 1.5 %

Fat and wax: 0.6 %

Advantages:

  1. It is biodegradable so Environment won’t be polluted by this product.
  2. The production of Jute in Bangladesh is more but its uses are not enough than its production. So that it can get much positive feedback from user.
  3. Because of being transparent its look like also polyethylene and attractive.
  4. It has more strength than polyethylene so it can carry much load.
  5. Because of made from jute fiber, after bulk production its cost would be cheap.

This article was guest post by Riad Badhon. You may get him by this mail id: riad19111998@gmail.com 

What do you think about this new invention and about his sonali bag please write a comment blew.

7 comments

Brief discussion of marker making methods

CAD, Cutting, Fabric
Brief Discussion of marker making- Feature Image

What are we going to discuss along with marker making methods ?

  • What is marker in garments?
  • Brief Discussion of marker making?
  • Methods of Marker making process?
  • How computerized method increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data?
  • Conclusion

 

On my own preference marker is a package of different size and different part of a garments (should be same fabric) placed in cut able fabric width is called marker. A best marker is defined by its efficiency, isn’t it clear? Let me clarify this matter and its methods.

Example:

Suppose you are responsible to cut 1500 pieces of garments in a pre calculated limited fabric such as 200 kg of fabric. Now you need to make at list 3 marker (based on your cutting instruction). If you able to save fabric more than it was calculated earlier! than you might be able to complete you’re cutting without any fabric short problem. When you maker marker you need to make it as tight as you can place the pieces in a minimum length and width. This is actually efficiency, means how much fabric is utilization on a marker. The efficiency always defined by percentage (Such as 95.08%, 85.84%).  After complete placement all pieces in a marker need to print on a paper to lay the fabric layer which is lay by machine or manually.

you may like to read Definitions of different types of fabrics lay packages

 

Basically there are two methods to make marker

A layer man is working on printed marker making and methods

A layer man is working on printed marker

Manual Method:

This is the most conventional methods to make marker by pattern master or marker maker. Pattern master took such a long time to make pattern by skating on pattern paper one by one to get appropriate shape of particular garments. After complete the pattern making using paper, pencil, scale and eraser. Marker maker placing garments one pattern beside another pattern. Generally one or two marker maker took 2-3 hours to make a basic length of a maker. This process is so much bothering to correction on marker. Because if marker need to do some correction; marker maker wipes the placed garments pieces and draw no pieces on that place. It’s too much bothering and matter of huge time and man power.

 

Computerized Method

Computerized Method

Computerized Method

Era has changed; manual technology has fade away because of the touch of computerized methods. This is most effective system that reduce too much time and fabric consumption & increase the efficiency of work. In this methods is using most of the large factory who are plays vital role to exert the garments across the world. Because of initial expenses of computerized methods small factory can’t afford to install computerized method. Its required computer, software, plotter, auto cutter machine which is expensive. Though this is expensive but most of the international buyer asking to install computerized methods to increase working efficiency as they can produce garments in minimum cost.

 

How computerized methods increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data?

You might know the basic way how the production company makes money? Base on time, man power, raw material and many more. Now I should’ve concentrate on the topic how company makes more profit by computerized marker methods. Suppose your company makes manual marker where you appointed 6 marker maker and 4 pattern maker, because they taking too much time to make marker. But; what if! You would be able to complete the task by half of the man power and one-third time? This is the question, when you use computerized marker making methods than you’ll be able to do marker in short time using less manpower more over increase the efficiency of work. This is how computerized methods increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data.

 

Conclusion

That was my sight of view about marker making methods, what do you think about it? You may share on comment below or send a mail to me by this is Info@textilestudent.com

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What is band knife

Accessories, Cutting, Fabric, Machinery
What is band knife, Feature image

What are we going to discuss about Band Knife:

  • What is band knife?
  • Brief discussion.
  • Feature .
  • Advantage.
  • Disadvantage.
  • Conclusion

Depending on cutting facility and cutting purpose the cutting operation complete by various way. There are too many cutting process used in garments industry, but today I’m going to discuss about band knife machine and its process. Which is used to cut mostly small pieces of garments specially lingerie item. Band knife work with an endless flexible knife like a loop.

Band knife is round flexible functional by three or more than three pulley are powered by a high RPM (revolutions per minute) electric motor. Based on material properties; the speed of knife can be adjust by machine operator. Small pieces of garments can be easily cut by band knife without making any technical fault in pieces. Operator required to push the fabric lay through the knife to complete the cutting operation. Depending the operator expertise garments pieces can be cut with 100% accuracy.

You may also Like it Methods of Fabric Cutting

Feature of Band knife machine:

  • An endless knife cut the fabric continuously which is run by three or more than three pulley.
  • All the pulley are powered by high speed electric motor.
  • The thickness round blade is narrower than straight knife.
  • This Machine is smoother than straight knife.
  • Large table required than the lay length.
  • Block pieces of fabric required to cut fabric by this machine.
  • Air blower helps the operator to move the fabric lay in various direction.
  • This methods of cutting process as like as saw mill methods.
  • In this band knife methods fabric is movable but the machine is stationary.
  • Automatic grinder used to make sharper the edge of knife during cutting.

What is band knife Machine

Advantage of band knife:

  • Very effective than straight knife to cut small pieces of garments.
  • Low space required for installation this machine.
  • Automatic grinder used to make sharper the edge of knife during cutting.
  • Intensity of accident is very low.
  • Possible to cut thin layer with 90 degree angle.
  • Air blower helps to smoothly handle and cut the fabric layer.
  • Only one operator can fully control a machine with fully operational.
  • Perfect to cut tiny pieces in lingerie like center front, cradle, wing, gusset etc. & in knit garments collar, placket, pocket, cuff etc.

Disadvantage of band knife:

  • Operator required to move around the machine to handle the fabric layer.

    band knife

    band knife (side View)

  • Without proper marker the fabric wastage is high.
  • Not possible to cut large length garments due to table length (Such as night dress, Long dress)
  • Fabric is not possible to cut directly.
  • High weight layer could be problem to smooth and perfect cut.
  • Too many marker required for large production (Long length marker can’t be handle or cut by this machine).

Conclusion

That was my sight of view, what do you think about it? If I missed something to share in this article you may put it on comment box below or send a mail to me by this is Info@textilestudent.com

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What is garment Tech Pack or Spec

Accessories, Business, CAD, Fashion, Merchandising
What-is-garment-Tech-Pack-or-Spec

Tech pack is an important sheet or paper where the designer create tech pack by illustration with all necessary information to make the desire product. It’s also known as spec by relevant people.This is like a contract paper for buyer and manufacturer, where they put all necessary information how they want that garments and send it to the responsible merchandiser. The buyer place all those information how they want that garments. Buyer send tech pack or spec separately for each and every garments.  Now in single sentence we can say that is tech pack is an instruction paper for making garment.

What is include in tech pack?

Tech pack is all about design, garment measurement and direction; how the garment need to produce.

  • Technical sketch of garments (Back, Front, Sleeve, neck, Hemp, and all required projection).
  • Garment’s proper image with measurement point.
  • Fabric Construction details (fabric type, fiber type, fiber percentage).
  • List of fabric, trims, materials, color, grading (Material source or supplier if required).
  • Size chart and ratio breakdown.
  • Artwork for prints, embroideries, patterns, labels, etc.
  • Packaging instruction.
  • Label dimension, fabrication, placement, text size and description.
Garment Sketch & Article Summary

Garment Sketch & Article Summary

How tech pack reduce time consumption in production industry?

Before place a production order to a garments manufacturer by buyer need a pre-production sample (PP Sample) as they can acquaint the production ability of any factory. Without any tech pack or special instruction none of any company can makes sample perfectly. They’ll have to make more and more PP sample and submit to the buyer for approval. It’ll take so much time to make exact sample which buyer looking for. In that case too much time required to approve one sample by buyer, time in money in production industry. If Sample department follow buyers tech pack or spec than may be they’ll be able to make desire sample on time and reduce the consumption of time which is way to save money.

Measurement chart

Measurement chart

Why garments manufacturer does required tech pack?

Tech pack indicate the way to produce the garment, in that case you’ll find the almost each and every essential information to complete garments production on that particular style or design. Designer build a strong communication with manufacturer how the garments need to complete.

Merchandiser working on tech pack with pattern.

Merchandiser working on tech pack with pattern.

How do you make a tech pack?

Most of the time designer used Adobe Illustrator software to make design or dedicated garments design software. Some time they follow some design template which can be downloaded from internet. If you want to make this kind of design you may follow any kind of methods to do your own design. Personally I use Adobe illustrator software which used most of the designing or advertisement media. Illustrator makes vector file so you would be able to print your design large size if you want.

Problem of Tech Pack

When any designer create a particular garments design; Designer doesn’t have much idea about pattern & marker making. In that case sometime designer need to amend the design by discussing with technical team as per save consumption of fabric.

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Brief discussion of marker making methods

Brief discussion of Group marker and its purpose

 

Conclusion

Everything about Spec is not possible to describe in any article, but I tried my best to show you as much as possible by a few lines. You might be get different situation during work. But all about tech pack is same as I described. Did I missed something that you want to share? Then don’t hesitate to place your opinion on below comment box. If you have any query write me on Info@textilestudent.com

 

 

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