Author: Engr. Md. Mustak Ahmed

He is passionate to research about textiles, garment technology for writing articles to spread the knowledge across globe. Read More.

Responsibility of an apparel merchandiser

Fabric, Fashion, Garments, Merchandising
Responsibility of an apparel merchandiser

Apparel merchandiser is a person who is plays the vital role to make a better profit by making contract with buyer to successful shipment. An ideal merchandiser should follow a few responsibilities to execute the apparel manufacturing process. All those responsibility should know every merchandiser that’s why I’m going to discuss about it. A minor mistake can reduce you calculation specialty or your professional skill. So read every step of this article carefully to be an expert on merchandising and do your professional duties.

Merchandiser is key of marketing for a garment manufacturing company and production observer.

Order collection

This is the first step to do duty of a senior merchandiser in garments industry. Always looking for buyer, make discussion and finally make an appointment with them to make a great deal by taking some dress manufacturing contract or order collection. An expert merchandiser can make a huge profit by making a profitable contract with buyer. Though most of the contract makes via E-mail or Fax but a merchandiser should know all of the way to collect order from buyer.

You May Interested to read. How do they gets order from buyers?

Sample development

Every business use some sample design to convince the buyer. That’s why this business also needs to make some sample to show those to buyer. Development of sample is required when the production factory want to take challenge to make batter garment with different high profile production factory. Sample development should be prepared before show to the buyer as it can be acceptable.

Price negotiation

Profit is the main aim of a garments production factory. What ever you think; in every business profit comes first. So In that case a senior merchandiser should know how to negotiate the price with buyer as the production company get’s profit by making this garments. Senior merchandiser must know how to explain the product with the buyer and why they deserve such amount of money to produce the product.

Material sourcing

Sourcing of the material capability is great and so much important qualification of a senior merchandiser. Every merchandiser should maintain a strong and good relation with supplier as they can be reaching in time. A good relation between supplier and buyer could help together to produce better product on time.

Order confirmation

Order confirmation is an important duty for a merchandiser that we have got the requirement garment manufacturing like quality of garment, how many size include in it, quantity of garments etc. simply it a simple latter or mail to buyer that we are agree to produce the garment within a amount days.

L/C opening

This is needs to export the product in another country. This is a part of commercial department of an industry but senior merchandiser should know and maintain the L/C work.

Opening summery

This is short information of all of goods manufacturing process. Opening summery made when a contract made by showing to the buyer or customer. This is whole process of manufacturing showing at a glance.

Production planning

This is a future planning of garments how it manufactures and what we’ll get. Production planning helps senior merchandiser to draw a production flow chart as it can be execute properly and handle all of worker.

Product development

Talking about the people who use the garments; always want a high quality garments by low budget. So product development is an important step to take before starting the manufacturing.

Production monitoring

Every production need to monitor properly so that the production would not makes any wrong step. Production monitoring helps the production manager to provide as same as garments quality as buyer required.

Quality assurance

Quality is a great character of a garment product. The product should not compromise with its quality by any causes. Buyer reserve the authority to cancel the order, if the quality of garments is less than the buyer asked.

Final inspection

Inspection is one of the most important steps to take in any manufacturing process. Buyer always asks for new and different design and quality that is could be new to the worker or official stuff. So inspection required in every step. Some time inspection could be providing wrong information as a result the shipment could be in danger. After complete final inspection the shipment would be ready for delivery.

Arrange shipment

After completing folding, packing, and make a unit box by carton. The goods are ready to shipment than the senior merchandiser arrange a transport to send them to buyer. If buyer has any terms and condition than merchandiser could follow the instruction because buyer is a big income source of the manufacturing company.

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Discuss of garment costing

Fabric, Fashion, Garments
Discuss of garment costing

Merchandiser is a profession where every merchandiser controlled by some internal rules and regulations to do the duty. Always rules and regulation show the path of working procedure of a merchandiser. So every merchandiser should follow every single rules and regulations all of this regulation are the responsibility of a merchandiser. This information is collected from a few senior merchandiser personal experience and opinion how they think about this job. I think this information can help fresh merchandiser who have no idea how a merchandiser work and those merchandiser whose have some misunderstand about it.

Discuss of garment costing

Discuss of garment costing

Garment costing

A garment is one of the most important elements used to make fashion and make a better life style. Now a day’s all the people across the world use garments to be a fashionable person includes you! Currently reading my article….

Different type of garment are manufacturing every day by different manufacturer depending the necessity of consumer. People who use the garment always want a high quality and comfort garments in minimum budget. So there is now way to make cheap garments by considering the quality of garment. Before make a conformation deal with buyer a merchandiser make the calculation of manufacturing cost. The price of the garment to a buyer depends of the estimate costing of a garment. After make a calculation of a garments the manufacturer fix a price for buyer as it can be accept able to the buyer and so friendly to the current business environment.

Calculation of a garment cost? May be this is not so easy as you think because a full proof and authentic and profitable calculation need a vast of knowledge of fabric manufacturing process and process cost and many more. Here is some important point should acknowledge to a perfect merchandiser. Here you go.

Raw Material source

As like every other production; garment also need raw material and this big amount of raw material or fabrics is not so easy to get it when it is need to produce the garment. So merchandiser so be able to make a strong relationship with supplier so that the material could be get in time. If the raw material cause a big problem than it could be reduce the profit. This is the big reason of hike the estimate cost of garments I think.

Color, Size and quantity specification

How many quantity of garments buyer want to buy and how many color and size should include on the contract. Some time the color of fabric could be rare to get and could not be able the make such amount of garment as much as the buyer required. So before make a deal with buyer always the responsible merchandiser take a look on the stock and supplier. After talking the order from buyer if the merchandiser unable to get the fabric and produce the garment than the costing could be hike from the calculation amount.

Size specification

Every calculation is abortively if the merchandiser makes a mistake with size specification of garments. Size specification should follow according to buyer on manufacturing process other wiser it will make wrong size of garments and manufacturer gets a shock of damages other than they get profit.

You May Interested to read What is garment Tech Pack or Spec?

Shipment date

Manufacturing process of garment must complete before the date of shipment. A senior merchandiser always fixes this date with buyer over phone, E-mail or Fax or any communication system. Shipment date should take seriously to do business all over the word because some time the buyer cancels the manufacturing order if the manufacturers companies miss the shipment date.

Inspection

Most of buyer inspects the garments before get the delivery from manufacturer. Buyer makes an inspection by themselves or third party send by buyer. After get the full conformation of the quality of garments the manufacturer gets paid.

Terms and condition

Some time some buyer adds some terms and conditions during make the deal with manufacturer. Payment system, wash fastness of fabric, and minimum and quality of garments also include on this terms and condition. This terms and condition also like how we contract with a tailor when order for a dress. But this condition could be written on contract paper.

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Calculation of fabric manufacturing

Calculation
Calculation of fabric manufacturing

Fabric manufacturing needs a full proof calculation to make a better profit. Every production manager always does calculation to reduce the wastage and make larger profit. Calculation can help to make a cheaper deal with buyer as no one able to do. In this following article I’m going to show you some critical calculation formula which is important to know every textile professional, textile engineer, Professor even a textile student.

Calculation of fabric manufacturing

Calculation of fabric manufacturing

Technical Formula

                                                     Motor pulley diameter
Loom speed = Motor RPM x ——————————-
                                                      Loom pulley diameter

                                               Actual production
Loom Efficiency % = ——————————-x 100
                                          Calculated production

                                           Yarn weight – Dried yarn weight
Moisture Regain % = ——————————————— x 100
                                                       Dried yarn weight

                                              Yarn weight – dried yarn weight
Moisture Content % = ———————————————— x 100
                                                               Yarn weight

                                             Total ends x Tape length in meter
Warp weight in Kg. = ——————————————————
                                                       1693.6 x Warp count

                                      RS in centimeters x Cloth length in meters x PPI
Weft weight in Kg. = ——————————————————————
                                                              4301.14 x Weft count

                                                    EPI                  PPI
Cloth weight in GSM = —————– + —————– x 25.6
                                               Warp count      Weft count

                                              GSM (Grams per sq. meter)
Oz (Ounce) per sq. yard = ——————————————
                                                                        34

Mathematical formula

Total wt. of size on warp = wt. of sized warp – wt. of upsized warp.

The wt. of size to be put on warp = wt. of upsized warp x % of size reqd to be put on warp.

                                            Length of warp in yds
the wt. of upsized warp = ——————————- x no. of ends + wt. of size.
                                                       840 x count

                                                Wt. of size
Wt. of sized warp = —————————— x 100%
                                      Wt. of upsized warp

                                                 Wt. of size
% of size on warp = —————————– x 100%
                                         Wt. of upsized warp

                                                   length of warp in yds
Count of sized yarn = ——————————————- x no. of ends
840 x wt. of sized warp (in lbs)

                                                                                      100
Count of sized yarn = count of upsized yarn x ———————–                                                                                100 + % of size

You may interested to read Terms of fabric Manufacturing and GSM Calculation

If any you have doubt or if you have any complain about this theory or information please let me know by posting a comment. Don’t be hesitates to ask!

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Distinguish between rotors & ring spinning frame.

Accessories, Machinery, Spinning
Rotor spinning frame

Spinning is a process where yarn makes from cotton or something else by twisting though spinning frame machine. There are a few types of spinning machine are used around the world but we will discuss about most used machine like rotor spinning frame and ring spinning frame. Every modern machine has history which created by conventional machine. Modern machine is an upgrade version of conventional machine. Remove some unusual parts of machine & using some latest mechanical or electrical technology; speed up the machine and finally got the modern machine.

Ring spinning frame

Ring spinning frame

Rotor spinning frame

Rotor spinning frame

No Rotor Spinning frame No Ring Spinning frame
01 Rotor spinning frame is modern spinning system machine 01 Ring spinning frame is conventional spinning system machine
02 This machine makes yarn by high drafting from sliver. 02 This machine makes yarn by lower pressure than rotor spinning frame from roving.
03 The working speed of rotor spinning frame is faster than ring spinning frame. 03 The working speed of ring spinning frame is lower than ring spinning frame.
04 Usually rotor spinning frame produced lower count yarn. 04 This machine can produce from low count yarn to high count yarn.
05 Basically the raw material of this machine is low quality. Means low grade cotton. 05 Relatively this machine used high grade cotton to produce yarn.
06 Temperature and moisture of cotton should be controlled to produce yarn by rotor spinning frame. 06 No need to control temperature and moisture of cotton to produced yarn by ring spinning frame.
07 Room temperature should be controlled in 20 to 28 C on spinning room. 07 Its better if the room temperature controlled in 28 to 35 C.
08 Only one drafting system is available on this machine so there are now break draft in this machine. 08 Darting system is split in two divisions called main draft and break draft.
09 Twisting and winding process work separately in rotor spinning frame. 09 Twisting and winding process work with each other.
10 Production of rotor spinning frame is more than ring spinning frame. 10 Production of ring spinning frame is less than rotor spinning frame
11 Consumption of electricity is less than ring spinning frame. 11 Consumption of electricity is more than rotor spinning frame.
12 The ratio of breakage yarn is less than ring spinning frame. 12 The ratio of breakage yarn more than rotor spinning frame.
13 Production sound or noise is less than ring spinning frame. 13 Production sound or noise of the machine is more than ring rotor spinning frame.
14 The produced yarn package large. 14 The produced yarn package is small.
15 A few labor or technician can produce or maintain rotor spinning machine. 15 Ring spinning machine required more than ring spinning frame machine.
16 Rotor spinning frame produced balanced yarn. 16 Ring spinning frame produced less balanced yarn.
17 Trash less cotton is perfect for make yarn balanced so always used cotton should less trash cotton. 17 Comparability this machine can produce yarn from maximum amount of trash full cotton.

You may Interested to read What is carding and classification of carding machine?

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Technical specification of modern ring frame

Machinery, Spinning
Technical specification of modern ring frame

About Ring spinning frame:

Spinning is the final step of yearn manufacturing process. The working procedure of ring spinning frame is taking the roving comes from simplex and produced yarn by reducing the weight of unit length. Ring is attached around bobbin. The traveler rolling on ring and enfold the yarn on bobbin. Ring spinning frame plays the vital role to spinning the yarn so it is called Ring spinning frame. Ring spinning frame’s production system is conventional.

Technical specification of modern ring frame

Technical specification of modern ring frame

Ring frame is only one machine which can produce yarn by any kind of fiber. Basically the working system of ring spinning frame is easy and the cost of machine is a little cheap. It is easy to separate the bobbin from ring and easy to carry. but a few problem also reduce its popularity like, working speed, conventional system, large amount of electricity consumption.  please follow the link to know more about rotor spinning frame and ring spinning frame. Click here!

Technical specification of modern ring spinning frame:

No Description of parts Specification
01 Roller and angle 45˚
02 The distance between center of lappet hook and center of front roller. 66.50 mm
03 Gage 70.00 mm
04 Tube length (gage -70.00 mm) 201, 220, 230 mm
05 Mechanical speed 25,000 mm
06 Count From 5.5s to 120s
07 Twist/inch From 4 to 55
08 Draft system Double apron 3 roller to arm.
09 Number of spindle From 96 to 1008
10 Main motor Down 15KM, High 37KM (45KW with Inver )
11 Ring lowering motor 0.35KW
12 Suction motor 0.35KW
13 Pantograph drive 2.20 KW
14 Horizontal transport belt 2×0.12 KW (Geared motor)
15 Inclined transport belt 2×0.185 KW (Geared motor)
16 Tube feeding 2.5 Minutes
17 Doffing time 2.5 minutes
18 Bobbin discharge speed 60 (30+30) Minutes
19 Compressed air consumption 1.35 liter/minute

You May interested to read Distinguish between rotors & ring spinning frame.

Function of ring spinning frame

Producing yarn is the main work of ring spinning frame. A few steps required to make yarn by ring spinning frame. The steps are given blew.

  1. Creeling
  2. drafting
  3. twisting
  4. winding
  5. building
  6. doffing

Detail discussing of the steps of ring spinning frame is coming in upcoming article.

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Types of wet processing

Wet Processing
Types of wet processing

Wet processing obeys an important duty to do in textile industry. Wet processing classified in three divisions in a short description. Because there are multiple divisions on those points are given below.

Types of wet processing

  1. Pr-treatment

Pr-treatment means preparation process. Before taking any necessary and important process like dying on a fiber or yarn has to do some preparation process called per-treatment. Pr-treatment makes the material as it can color as much as easy way. Basically this process used acid, salt, oxidizing agent, reducing agent, enzyme, wetting agents and many more. Selection of wet processing elements and temperature are decided by expert engineers according to the machinery are used in dying or wet processing floor.

 

  1. Dyeing and printing
    • Dying

Dying is a process where fiber, yarn or fabrics are colored by water and dyestuff is called dyeing. All this dying process done by penetration technique as it can spread all over the surface of the raw material. The dye can be different and change by the properties and category of that fabric is used to. The application of dyeing is depend on hue, tone, brilliancy, fastness, affinity, solubility and many more properties. Dye is a colored material which is built by chromophore and auxochrome group.

Basically we get some dyestuff in market.

  • Direct Dyes
  • Basic Dyes
  • Acid Dyes
  • Sulpher Dyes
  • Reactive Dyes
  • Vat Dyes
  • Azoic Dyes
  • Disperse Dye

 

    • Printing

Printing technique let us create custom design with different color on a fabrics land. In a single word “Printing means make a design with different color and shape on a fabric as it mention some think as people can accept it”. There are few printing technique are used to complete printing process. Following style are given below.

  • Direct Style
  • Dyed Style
  • Resist Style
  • Discharge Style
  1. Finishing

After complete bleaching dying and printing one step is left to get the final product that is finishing. Generally the type and quality of finishing is depends on buyer, customer or present market status. Actually the aim of finishing is increasing the fineness and comfort ability. Sometime finishing also depend on the purpose of the fabric are used to.

Generally two ways to finishing the fabric

  • Mechanical Finishing

Calendaring, Sanforization, Embossing, is the example of mechanical finishing.

  • Chemical Finishing

Merchandising, water proofing, fire proofing, is the example of chemical finishing.

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