Terms of fabric Manufacturing and GSM Calculation

Fabric can be made from interlacement, interlooping , intertwining  or bonding of two , one or multiple threads or fibers with specified dimensional stability that can be transformed to apparel or Garments. we are gonna discussing about GSM as wall.

There are three major methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into fabrics

  1. Interlacement or Interwevaing
  2. Interlooping
  3. Intertwining

Interlacement or Interwevaing :-

Two distinct  sets of yarns one is called warp yarn and another is called weft yarn  are interlaced with each other and produced fabric by loom which is called woven fabric. The lengthwise yarns are called warp and  The crosswise yarns are called  weft. Weft yarns are also known as filling yarns or threads

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Interlooping :-

Interlooping consists of forming yarn (one set yarn such as warp or weft) into loops, each of which is only released after a succeeding loop has been formed  and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop structure is achieved . knit fabric is produced by Interlooping

Intertwining :-

Intertwining and twisting includes a number of methods such as braiding and knotting where yarns are caused to intertwine with each other at right angles or some other angle

Nonwoven

The planner substance which can be made from bonding fibers with specific dimensional stability that can be transformed to apparel

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Terms of fabric Manufacturing and GSM Calculation

What is band knife

What is garment Tech Pack or Spec

Some terms  that you have to know

Winding:

To produce suitable package from spinners package such as cone, cop, pirn cheese etc. is called Winding

Warping:

To produce warper beam from suitable  package such as cone, cop, pirn cheese etc. is called Warping

Sizing:

The process of applying a protective coating upon the yarn surface so that the yarn will suffer the least damage in weaving

Pinning:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the drop wire/ dropper is called pinning.

Drawing:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald eye of heald Frame is called Drawing  .

Drafting:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald eye of heald Frame for a specific fabric such as twill , plain is called Drafting .

Denting:

The process of passing the warp yarn through the dent of reed is called Denting .

Tying-in/ Knotting:

The tail end of the warp from the exhausted warp beam is tied or knotted to the beginning of the new warp is called Tying-in

Soft Winding:

By reducing hardness, the package has to be made suitable for dyeing. It is called soft winding.

Hard Winding:

During winding process a hard package is made from the soft package. Then it is converted to a cone form. It is called hard winding.

Backward Linkage:

The relation of grey fabric with yarn, fiber and polymer is known as backward linkage.

Forward Linkage:

The relation of grey fabric with finished fabric and apparel is known as forward linkage

 

What is GSM ?

It is the metric measurement of the weight of a fabric. The Elaborate form of GSM is grams per square meter. it is also known as (gm/m2). Some clothing items are still marked in Imperial weights OZ or oz/yd2. OZ or oz/yd2 means ounces per yard squared

We can measure GSM  by using following steps without GSM Cutter :

  •  Cut 5 pieces of fabric.  (The length and the width of all fabric pieces should be like 12 cm)
  • Measure the weight of all fabric pieces. (suppose 1.8gm, 2gm, 1.85gm, 1.90gm, 1.95gm)
  • Then calculate average  weight such as

(1.8+2+1.85+1.90+1.95)/5 =1.95 gm

  • Calculate the fabric sample area

Length * width = 12 * 12 = 144 cm2

Now apply this formula

GSM = (Weight of the samplein Gram*10000)/Area of Sample in cm2

        = ( 1.9*10000)/144

        = 131.94

 

Comments :

Fabric weight depends on GSM .

 

Relation between GSM & OZ :

5.5oz x 33.906 = 186.48gsm

185gsm / 33.906 = 5.45oz

This is very important to understand the variations of fabric weight

Brief discussion of marker making methods

Brief Discussion of marker making- Feature Image

What are we going to discuss along with marker making methods ?

  • What is marker in garments?
  • Brief Discussion of marker making?
  • Methods of Marker making process?
  • How computerized method increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data?
  • Conclusion

 

On my own preference marker is a package of different size and different part of a garments (should be same fabric) placed in cut able fabric width is called marker. A best marker is defined by its efficiency, isn’t it clear? Let me clarify this matter and its methods.

Example:

Suppose you are responsible to cut 1500 pieces of garments in a pre calculated limited fabric such as 200 kg of fabric. Now you need to make at list 3 marker (based on your cutting instruction). If you able to save fabric more than it was calculated earlier! than you might be able to complete you’re cutting without any fabric short problem. When you maker marker you need to make it as tight as you can place the pieces in a minimum length and width. This is actually efficiency, means how much fabric is utilization on a marker. The efficiency always defined by percentage (Such as 95.08%, 85.84%).  After complete placement all pieces in a marker need to print on a paper to lay the fabric layer which is lay by machine or manually.

you may like to read Definitions of different types of fabrics lay packages

 

Basically there are two methods to make marker

A layer man is working on printed marker making and methods

A layer man is working on printed marker

Manual Method:

This is the most conventional methods to make marker by pattern master or marker maker. Pattern master took such a long time to make pattern by skating on pattern paper one by one to get appropriate shape of particular garments. After complete the pattern making using paper, pencil, scale and eraser. Marker maker placing garments one pattern beside another pattern. Generally one or two marker maker took 2-3 hours to make a basic length of a maker. This process is so much bothering to correction on marker. Because if marker need to do some correction; marker maker wipes the placed garments pieces and draw no pieces on that place. It’s too much bothering and matter of huge time and man power.

 

Computerized Method

Computerized Method

Computerized Method

Era has changed; manual technology has fade away because of the touch of computerized methods. This is most effective system that reduce too much time and fabric consumption & increase the efficiency of work. In this methods is using most of the large factory who are plays vital role to exert the garments across the world. Because of initial expenses of computerized methods small factory can’t afford to install computerized method. Its required computer, software, plotter, auto cutter machine which is expensive. Though this is expensive but most of the international buyer asking to install computerized methods to increase working efficiency as they can produce garments in minimum cost.

 

How computerized methods increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data?

You might know the basic way how the production company makes money? Base on time, man power, raw material and many more. Now I should’ve concentrate on the topic how company makes more profit by computerized marker methods. Suppose your company makes manual marker where you appointed 6 marker maker and 4 pattern maker, because they taking too much time to make marker. But; what if! You would be able to complete the task by half of the man power and one-third time? This is the question, when you use computerized marker making methods than you’ll be able to do marker in short time using less manpower more over increase the efficiency of work. This is how computerized methods increase profit line in the statistic of some company’s financial data.

 

Conclusion

That was my sight of view about marker making methods, what do you think about it? You may share on comment below or send a mail to me by this is Info@textilestudent.com

What is band knife

What is band knife, Feature image

What are we going to discuss about Band Knife:

  • What is band knife?
  • Brief discussion.
  • Feature .
  • Advantage.
  • Disadvantage.
  • Conclusion

Depending on cutting facility and cutting purpose the cutting operation complete by various way. There are too many cutting process used in garments industry, but today I’m going to discuss about band knife machine and its process. Which is used to cut mostly small pieces of garments specially lingerie item. Band knife work with an endless flexible knife like a loop.

Band knife is round flexible functional by three or more than three pulley are powered by a high RPM (revolutions per minute) electric motor. Based on material properties; the speed of knife can be adjust by machine operator. Small pieces of garments can be easily cut by band knife without making any technical fault in pieces. Operator required to push the fabric lay through the knife to complete the cutting operation. Depending the operator expertise garments pieces can be cut with 100% accuracy.

You may also Like it Methods of Fabric Cutting

Feature of Band knife machine:

  • An endless knife cut the fabric continuously which is run by three or more than three pulley.
  • All the pulley are powered by high speed electric motor.
  • The thickness round blade is narrower than straight knife.
  • This Machine is smoother than straight knife.
  • Large table required than the lay length.
  • Block pieces of fabric required to cut fabric by this machine.
  • Air blower helps the operator to move the fabric lay in various direction.
  • This methods of cutting process as like as saw mill methods.
  • In this band knife methods fabric is movable but the machine is stationary.
  • Automatic grinder used to make sharper the edge of knife during cutting.

What is band knife Machine

Advantage of band knife:

  • Very effective than straight knife to cut small pieces of garments.
  • Low space required for installation this machine.
  • Automatic grinder used to make sharper the edge of knife during cutting.
  • Intensity of accident is very low.
  • Possible to cut thin layer with 90 degree angle.
  • Air blower helps to smoothly handle and cut the fabric layer.
  • Only one operator can fully control a machine with fully operational.
  • Perfect to cut tiny pieces in lingerie like center front, cradle, wing, gusset etc. & in knit garments collar, placket, pocket, cuff etc.

Disadvantage of band knife:

  • Operator required to move around the machine to handle the fabric layer.

    band knife

    band knife (side View)

  • Without proper marker the fabric wastage is high.
  • Not possible to cut large length garments due to table length (Such as night dress, Long dress)
  • Fabric is not possible to cut directly.
  • High weight layer could be problem to smooth and perfect cut.
  • Too many marker required for large production (Long length marker can’t be handle or cut by this machine).

Conclusion

That was my sight of view, what do you think about it? If I missed something to share in this article you may put it on comment box below or send a mail to me by this is Info@textilestudent.com

How to look for flame retardant fabrics suppliers

How to look for Flame Retardant Fabrics Suppliers

It is all very well to have done the work hazard assessment and analysis. Having determined the right level of protection for the employees at different levels of organization. But the next step that is extremely crucial in determining a safe and wise investment. A smooth working relationship is to find a reliable FR fabric manufacturer and supplier that understands your protection requirements. This is where you have to be careful. Because there are several factors that come into play for making the right choice. But if you keep your “essentials” checklist close at hand and make your evaluations of a supplier based on a realistic practical approach. You will be able to make a sound decision.

How to look for flame retardant fabrics suppliers

There are many ways. some or all of which can be employed for finding the right FR Fabric manufacturer and supplier for you.

First Things First

Before you embark on that search. It is important to keep your focus majorly for a supplier that is a vertical manufacturer and incorporates holistic approach. If your supplier is also your FR fabric manufacturer. This will ensure for very important things:

  1. Your supplier will have a first-hand product knowledge for their offering, and understanding for the client requirements
  2. Your supplier can do custom products for your organizational requirements given they offer such as option
  3. You can be sure of a steady supply of product-quality
  4. You can potentially find a long-term relationship with your supplier which is of great significance for any organization

Online Marketplace

You can find hundreds of suppliers at online market places such as Global Sources or Ali Baba. A look through these market-places will not essentially find you THE supplier for you but what it will do is get you a feel of the market, the range of products as well as the range of supply programs available in the market. This will initialize a process for you. By visiting the websites of the suppliers you like and communicating with them, you will be able to review their product range as well as determine their understanding of industry requirements, respectively. This process will help you create your own supplier ranking.

Public and Private FR Safety Organizations

Local and international public and private safety organizations are very reliable sources for acquiring background information about flame retardant fabric manufacturers and suppliers. They often have publications that inform about top industry traders as well as up-to-date and state-of-the-art products from various suppliers. Reaching out to employee safety organizations and authorities can often save you a lot of valuable time and efforts.

How to look for Flame Retardant Fabrics Suppliers

How to look for Flame Retardant Fabrics Suppliers

Trade Exhibitions

Trade exhibitions are hands-down the best place to connect with FR manufacturers and suppliers. There is no other place where you can learn as much about your potential supplier. Trade shows and exhibitions benefit you on a multitude of levels as they bring together the cream of the marketplace under one roof for you and provide you the opportunity to review the best FR products in the market, network with the manufacturers and suppliers, and exchange valuable industry insights.

You can gain in-depth knowledge about what goes into the making of a quality FR product from the use of flame retardants variety such as halogen-free, phosphorus, abominated, nitrogen-based, chlorinated, inorganic flame retardants and more, to flame retardant materials – for example, inherent and treated flame resistant or retardant fibers, FR engineering plastics, retardant composite materials, retardant modified plastics, flame retardant polymeric materials, flame retardant foam, retardant elastomer etc. – to finished flame resistant or retardant fabrics.

Trade shows afford you the unparalleled chance to build more of an international quality platform and connect with the industry chain of high quality resources by exploring global markets and evaluate business opportunities for superior and innovative products.

Samples and Product Testing

Once you have established who your potential FR suppliers are, the next important step is to request product samples for testing and final evaluations. With all the knowledge and assessments, real valuations come from actually trying out the flame retardant clothing in the original work environment. Not only will it give you the genuine performance merits for your chosen product against the physical workplace conditions, you will also be able to achieve employee feedback on fabric comfort and functionality. These are the factors that will govern your final choice for a flame retardant fabric or garment supplier based on objective and concrete product evaluation.

Evaluating Expertise of a FR Fabric Supplier

While you set about assessing the expertise of your flame retardant fabric or clothing supplier, it is critical to know how to make that evaluation. Given below is a checklist to make your prior evaluations of a supplier.

Compliance with Industry Standards –While every country has their own set of local industry standards, there are some worldwide compliance standards that will help you set your initial expectations about the product quality and performance from any supplier. These international standards are OSHA, NFPA, ASTM and ISO.

Business years –Determining how long a supplier has been in industry business and how much they have grown over the years, will give you an idea about their product expertise.

Current clientage and Retention Level –This can be a major determinant in forming your final decision, knowing who the current clients of a supplier are, what kind of industries they operate in, and how long they have been in business with that particular supplier. If you have common grounds with most of the clients then you know that your supplier knows your protection requirements and in that sense, they have a greater overall value for you.

Consultancy –An authentic FR fabric supplier should be able to give you proper consultancy and professional technical assistance about the connection between the hazards your employees face on daily basis as well as potential higher risks involved and the flame retardant protection they would offer specific to your situation. This would mean they have an in-depth and up-to-date industry knowledge and they know their trade well.

Product Variety –The range of different products offered by a supplier not only implies their industry knowledge, it also shows their interest and passion for innovative products and industry adaptation.

Vertical Manufacturing –Vertical manufacturing signifies the chain of value-added processes that a product goes through at different levels of production and it is a way to ensure seamless supply and sturdy quality of a particular FR product.

Custom Programs –Custom programs are great for any organization. Any suppliers offering custom products and programs recognize that and thus offer many options to suit their clients’ individual requirements such as protection level, comfort level, preferred blends and weaves, style of clothing, budget limitations etc.

After-sales service –This is another great contributing factor to knowing your supplier has serious expertise when they offer robust after-sales service and management. This indicates that they would like to continue to be in touch with you throughout your business relationship with them, that they care about their clients and they are fire-sure of their product quality to know they can handle an odds complaint that may be reported.

Comparing Programs offered by FR Fabric Suppliers

Having done all of the above, the elements that will seal the deal with a supplier for you are how suited they are to your particular situation and how comfortable your business relationship is going to be with them. This can be gauged from the following factors:

Product vs Customer Centric Approach –It is important to see if the supplier offers custom products or programs that are suited to your particular situation and that how willing they are to work with on-going changes and product adaptations. A product centric supplier would usually go with their own pace of industry adaptation whereas a customer centric supplier would incorporate your feedback and your company philosophy into product improvements in order to form a better working relationship and rapport with the client.

Budgetary Requirements –A good supplier will also understand your budget limitations and work with you to achieve maximum value for your budget. They would recognize that you are making a long-term investment with them and do everything within the scope of their business to offer you the best quality for your bucks.

Care and Maintenance –Laundry and pick-and-drop services can be of huge importance in many industries especially where work has to be carried out in remote locations with limited on site facilities as in mining. In such cases, maintenance and delivery services become a mandatory requirement for a client and add to a supplier’s overall value for them.

End note

It may be a lot of work to select your flame resistant or flame retardant fabric supplier but once you have found the supplier that have the right chemistry with you, it would be worth the effort. At the end of the day, you want a supplier you can form a long-term relationship with and in order to do that you would want to check most or ideally all of the expectations on your ‘must-have’ list.

This is a guest post & Written by Mr Daletec from Norway. you may get him by this E-mail: info@daletec.com

Responsibility of sewing supervisor

Responsibility of sewing supervisor

Cloth is most known particular things we used since we were baby and still we use it every single day in our life social life. This cloths we wear, is not so easy to produce, its take a long journey in production factory. One of your garments is required to look after by too many responsible people. Today’s our discussion related one of them is called sewing supervisor. Sewing section is the unit of garments which is responsible to make a proper shape and extended life of stitch to maintain the buyer quality standard.

Responsibility of a sewing supervisor

Responsibility of a sewing supervisor

Responsibility of a sewing supervisor is not like a desk job and work eight hours in a day. It’s very difficult to explain who has no personal experience in garment sector especially in underdeveloped country like India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and many more. Sewing supervisor need to attend his/her duty in on production floor with hundred of sewing operators. Every production needs thousand of worker in a unit and in charge of all of them are production manager. In that case the production manager is unable to look after all of those workers so they need sewing supervisor to maintain a unit amount of worker and operator.  A sewing supervisor also observed by production manager, they get order from manager and done the job by worker. After complete the task the supervisor submit those production information in corporate office by order of production manager.

Responsibility of production supervisor

  • Planning and organizing production schedules
  • Take a look of the project and resource total amount of raw material.
  • Style Analysis with expert mind to get buyer requirement.
  • Estimating, negotiating and agreeing budgets and timescales with clients and managers
  • Ensuring that health and safety regulations are met
  • Discipline in Shop Floor
  • Operator Training needs to execute the production without any problem
  • Line Setting maintain the production system following step by step
  • Line Balancing and WIP Control
  • Determining quality control standards
  • Overseeing production processes
  • Re-negotiating timescales or schedules as necessary
  • Selecting, ordering and purchasing materials
  • Organizing the repair and routine maintenance of production equipment
  • Liaising with buyers and marketing and sales staff
  • Supervising the work of junior staff
  • Machine Selection
  • Stitching Quality
  • Meeting Target Production

Required special skill of production supervisor

  • Confidence on challenging work.
  • Technical skills in production sector.
  • Project management skills in relevant area.
  • Organisation and efficiency in factory
  • Communication skills with worker and office.
  • Team working skills with peaceful mind
  • Computer skill with MS Office and Internet
  • Problem solving skills to reducing time and money wastage.
  • Leadership and interpersonal skills to maintain worker.
  • Calculation skill to calculate any critical production calculation.

Abbreviation

WIP : Waiting to Input

In consolation I would like to share my personal experience. Most of that are requirement I shared in this article is important to do a job in a garment industry as a supervisor. But there is something I didn’t mention in this article which is smartness and ability to maintain a good relation with boss and workers. So make a position by yourself don’t give-up the sector by thinking that garments is too harder job than you thought.  Best of Luck!

3D printing in garment industry

3D Printing in garments industry

Printing is an essential department in garments manufacturing industry; which makes special looks for a garment. Different apparel branded company around the world always print different design on the garments to gives better looks. There are too many types of printing system are used in garments technology but 3D printing is a glorious and latest invention in apparel industry.

3D printing in Garment Industry.

3D printing in Garment Industry.

What is 3D technology?

3D isn’t newly invented technology in the world but in apparel industry this is the most recent invention makes people happy and more fashionable. 3D technology stands for three-dimensional technology that offers a wide array of possibilities in near future in almost every walk of life and especially in entertainment, fashion, architecture, and many more segments. 1915 is time as far as concern when the 3D technology was invented but it was unable to commercial use cause of costly hardware and production process. But there are a few times in USA 1950s, 1980s, 1990s and 2000s are used this technology in entertainment industry. In December 2009 and January 2010 the 3D technology achieved unprecedented success by presenting avatar film (avatar is blockbuster Hollywood film).

 

Since 2010, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) group “ASTM F42 – Additive Manufacturing” developed a set of standards that classify the Additive Manufacturing processes into 7 categories according to Standard Terminology for Additive Manufacturing Technologies. These seven processes are given blew.

 

Vat Photopolymerisation

Material Jetting

Binder Jetting

Material Extrusion

Powder Bed Fusion

Sheet Lamination

Directed Energy Depositio

 

Different technique of 3d printing

Stereolithography(SLA)

Digital Light Processing(DLP)

Fused deposition modeling (FDM)

Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)

Selective laser melting (SLM)

Electronic Beam Melting (EBM)

 

Conclusion: Each technology takes a little time to spread into all around the world and industry. Though 3D Technology was invented long ago but its seems new in textile technology. How ever; we’ll research more to be updated about 3D printing in garments industry.

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